What are NPEs in clothing and why are they harmful?

NPEs (nonylphenol ethoxylates) are surfactants used in textile manufacturing as detergents, emulsifiers, and wetting agents during dyeing and finishing processes. When NPEs are released into water, they break down into nonylphenol (NP), a persistent environmental pollutant and known endocrine disruptor. NP mimics estrogen and has been shown to disrupt reproductive systems in aquatic organisms at very low concentrations.

Residual NPEs can remain in finished garments and are released during washing at home, entering wastewater and ultimately waterways. The EU has restricted NPEs in textiles to below 100 parts per million, but the US has no such regulation. Greenpeace's Detox campaign brought widespread attention to NPE contamination in clothing from major brands, finding detectable levels in products from numerous global retailers.

Choosing GOTS-certified clothing is one of the best ways to avoid NPE-contaminated garments, as the standard prohibits NPEs throughout the supply chain. OEKO-TEX also tests for NPE residues. Brands on ONDU work with certified supply chains that exclude NPEs and other harmful surfactants from their manufacturing processes.